CHRISTMAS CHEER

Our return to Sicily on Dec. 4 was a 30 hour trek, highlighted by a Christmas package  sent to us by friends from Germany.
       The last time we saw Agnes and Manfred Baxman was on their wedding day almost 40 years ago as their witnesses.  They are avid sailors themselves, but in their hometown, Mönkeberg, near Kiel, the sailing season is as short as it is on Georgian Bay, so coming to Sicily where the weather is very temperate is a real treat.

Agnes & Manfred Baxman

Luisa

Our friends on Vivamare have recently welcomed a furry friend on board.  Luisa has won our hearts and will become 2nd mate on Vivamarae when we set sail in Spring.  While away in Canada the "marina dog" has given birth to 6 puppies.  Yippy....I'm getting my puppy/kitten fix.

By now our friends have returned to Germany and are preparaing for their family Christmas.  Their visit gave us the opportunity to experience and see interesting, fabulous places.  On our first excursion we set off with a rental car and a GPS heading for Caltagirone, ceramic capital of Italy, a town famous for the its unique pottery

and its 142-step staircase of Santa Maria del Monte where each step is decorated with different hand-decorated ceramic tiles.  On this particular day we weren't the only tourists out and about.  The entire city was teeming with groups of school children of all ages.  Just when we thought we had found a quiet little cafe in one of the side streets, along came a group of about 50 teenagers.

Continuing on, we visited a 4th century Roman villa.  The Villa Romano del Casale has the largest  most complex collection of Roman mosaics in the world and as result is a UNESCO World Heritage site.  Unfortunately, the entire site was under major renovation with scaffolding everywhere.   It looks like the ancient Romans invented the bikini  long before the 1950's.

Cemetery & Harbour

It seems that almost every town has its own castle, some have been maintained, but most are just ruins.  Overlooking the cemetery and the harbour stands the Castel Sant'Angelo, the only surviving military architecture in Licata.  To the east the sandy beaches look inviting, but even in Sicily December is too cold for swimming.

We all agreed that the highlight of our friend's visit was the wine tasting at a local winery, Quignones known for their high quality wines.  Our wonderful marina staff, on call 24/7, organized everything including transportation.
Our host Alfredo Quignones and his co-worker Angelo welcomed us warmly, not only in English, but in German as well.    I quickly noticed that Angelo's German was better than mine  as he explained the intricate mechanisms of wine making.  

The table was  beautifully laid out with antipasto, olives, sun-dried tomatos, cheese and with different varieties of bread and of course 5 different wine glasses.  The terrace overlooks the many orange and lemon trees of the estate.  It is a little piece of heaven.  During our meal of Sicilian pancetta, pork fillet and home-made sausage we tasted 4 different wines.  Starting with a Rose and closing with a dessert wine.

Wine Tasting

Gradually the weather has become much cooler, with Christmas Eve at our door step, we celebrate quietly trying to remember what snow looks like.

NOVEMBER NEWS

November 7, 2011

Having left Simple Abundance in the care of our friends and marina personnel, our return trip to Canada for our grandson's 1st birthday took us to Rome.
Our day started at 7 am when Giuseppe ( marina staff) drove us to the bus station, showed us where to buy our bus tickets and morning expresso.  The 2 hour bus ride to Catania airport showcased a variety of Sicilian landscapes; rugged, hilly, baron areas along with hillsides covered with lush green vegetation.  The olive harvest was in full swing and we could see the large nets spread out beneath the trees with people perched on ladders using only hands or small rakes for collection.  Lemon and orange orchards are scattered through-out and of course the many vineyards made for a very charming trip.
The 1 hour flight to the Leonardo da Vinci aeroporto di Roma was uneventful.  Our bags arrived quickly; the Alitalia bus took us directly into the city within walking distance of of hotel.  With all  travel connections finally behind us we arrived at the Hotel Continental and checked in.  Most of Rome's hotels are conveniently located approximately 1km from the Roma Termini (central train station).

At this point all we wanted was a nice tall glass of Italian beer and a little antipasta so the tratorria next door looked very inviting.  Having filled our tummies we now needed a nap before proceeding to investigate any other places.

The picture on the left is the hotel elevator that barely  fits 2 people.

The following morning we bought 2 city tour bus tickets, valid for 3 days; hop on/ hop off senario.  Last stop, everybody off was St. Peter's Square.  The amount of other tourists was staggering.  Later, a waiter in our favorite restaurant told us that October was actually the most busy month of the year.  WHO KNEW!!!!!!!!!  The crowds in fact are so hugh that people recommend to carry your backpack in the front to avoid being pick pocketed.









The Swiss Guard in their smart? colorful uniform have existed since the 15th century and serve as pontifical and cerimonial body gurads in Vatican City.

Trevi Fountain

Loved Rome, the architechure, the impressive buildings, my personal favorite was?? sorry couldn't find the name.  The Trevi Fountain was a total disappoinment.  So many people in a really small area; we didn't even see any water.  You wouldn't believe the crowds.

So you can image that parking is always hit and miss; you just take the any spot that presents itself no matter the size.

 We had an incredible time, but of course loved coming home to family.  The celebration of our grandson's 1st birthday was enough of an excuse.

I'm bias, he's the cutest!!!!!!!!

The birthday party was a big success.  Ryland had his share of B'day cake and his favorite meal, spagetti.  With tons of pics, the day will not be forgotton.

OCTOBER OCEAN

October 24, 2011

Finally the strangleing heat has passed and Simple Abundance has arrived in Licata, Scicily, our winter home for the next several months.  During the summer our friends Gabi & Gerald from Vivamare researched marinas that would be suitable in regard to price, facilities available, location of town etc.  and we decided on Marina Di Cala Del Sol in Licata, a brand new facility.

Vivamare had sailed in the Med all summer and we were now ready to resume our journey together, but they had a hugh head start and hundreds of nautical miles (nm) away from where we had left Simple Abundance during the months in Canada.  We stayed in touch regularly and negotiated a harbour both boats could arrive in the same day.

On October 12 coming from completely opposite directions, the two boats......and friends reunited in Trapani the north-west side of Scicily.  We celebrated with a bottle of champagne on board and treated ourselves to a good Scicilian meal in a local trattoria.

Simple Abundance left Cartagena, Spain Sept. 20 heading continually heading east to Formentara, Ibiza, Mallorca,  missing Menorca completely and sailing straight for Cagliari on the Isle of Sardinia because now we had a schedule that we wanting to meet.  Of course we made some stops along the way, but the trip from Mallorca to Sardinia was 50 hours non-stop journey.

In Cagliari, Sardinia we were greeted at Antonello's dock by a friendly marinaro and asked to register (as always) at our leisure.    Once a boat has docked in a harbour/city, the crew must register with the marina office with passport, ship's registry and insurance papers.  Upon finishing our docking cocktail, we proceeded to the marina office, one large beer tent with a table in the corner piled high papers; no computer.  All they required was the name of the boat how many days we plan to stay.  OK then, that's a first.

Weather conditions required us to stay longer than we wanted.  This particular marina was on the outskirts of town and not very pedestrian friendly.  I couldn't wait to move on.

And move on we did in the early  hours of October 11 looking for the refuelling dock.  We had a general idea where to find the diesel pump but it wasn't an obvious sign; you almost have to be a local to find.  We waited until 8am knowing by then somebody would there to pump some 200 litters into our fuel tank, but nobody was insight.  In the far distance a man on a bicycle with his dog...yup the attendant.  He had watched us dock and  came to help.   Now we'll have enough fuel to get us to Trapani, Sicily to meet our friends on Vivamare.  Thirty hours later, with a very damp night behind us we pulled into the harbour and celebrated with nice bottle of chilled champagne.

SEPTEMBER SUNSHINE

SEPTEMBER 10, 2011

After another brief encounter with the Zurich security people (this one I won) I met up with Wolfgang and we stayed 2 days with friends in Waldshut.  From Zurich we flew to Palma, Mallorca and then on to Murcia, Airport Spainish mainland..... a further twenty minute cab ride took us to the Yacht Port Cartagena where we had left Simple Abundance 3 months earlier; we were home.  

Off came the shoes, and most of our clothes to boot.  Stripped down to the bare essentials we unpacked our suitcases with the cabin temperature reading of 35 degrees.  Everything was just the way we left things with the exception of a fine layer of yellow sand blown over from the Sahara.

We spent the next few days bringing in provisions, the local supermarket does deliver.  Water, beer and wine is just too much to bring back in a granny cart, hot weather or not.  

Most marinas are firmly established little micro commumities where cruisers from around the world meet and exchange information, experiences and make new friendships.  During a recent BBQ evening, we met many other couples, some retired, some looking forward to retirement.  Others came from Norway with their two children and plan to stay in Cartegana for the winter months learning Spanish and  travelling by car to Velencia and Barcelona.  We met one Britsh couple who had been in this Cartagena harbour for four years on and off with the occasional visit to the UK.  She was the “go-to person” if you had any questions about anything in the area.  She told us about the upcoming cultural event called the Carthagineses & Roman Festival.  It’s a 5 day festival celebrating Cartagena’s rich history with the Romans.  Hundreds of local men, women and lots of children dressed in authentic costumes and participataed in elaborate on stage performances in the open-air theater with the habour as the backdrop.  Performances usually didn’t start until after sunset which makes things much more comfortable for the audience.  After the performance of “Lighting the Sacred Fire” the entire group paraded through the street with marching bands and chariots.

 September 23, 2011

We left Calpe, last Spanish mainland port  early this morning heading dead east to Formentera, a smaller island just a few miles south of Ibiza.  Formentera has been described as a tropical paradise with long white sandy beaches and lagoons with turquoise clear water.  

Calpe is a fairly good sized town with the usual fishing harbour, but interestingly enough the daily fish auction was open to public viewing.  The bidders sit on bleachers on either side of a hugh conveyor belt which come rolling out in front of them in big shallow plastic crates.  Each crate is filled one variety of seafood, but in total there are at least 20 different kinds of seafood. Each bidder had an electronic device in their hand which records their bidding….then the product is marked with their number to be picked up later.   Fasinating, but we did not eat fish that night.

We headed out at 8am and ETA is 6pm this evening.  We will anchor in one of the many sheltered bays and we will take our first Mediterrainean swim.  Today’s crossing from the mainland to the Baleric Islands has been idilic sofar with the winds coming from the south, dolphins surfacing once in a while and Ibiza looming on the horizon.

While still back in Cartegana we met a very nice Britsh couple, Sue and Nigil who  also live aboard their Southerly, “Bodic”.  We’ve hooked up with them and will anchor  in the same bay tonight.  I guess it’s time to haul out our dinghy  that’s been hiding in a bag (deflated of course) in my cabin, pump some air into it, hang a 4Hp motor on the back and explore the beaches.

Leaving the boat in Cartegana for months means the the hull, propeller and rudders of been saturated with barnicals.  Once we’re comfortably settled in our anchorage tomorrow I will put on my wet suit and goggles to see how much build-up there is.

The Formentera achorage was not nearly as nice as expected….no white sand, no turquoise water and the our house was  rockin & rollin all night long.  To top things off we spent two hours untwisting our achor line from the mooring line.  Generally, only one of the two are needed but the forecast promised thunderstorms so we thought better safe than sorry.  No thunderstorm and boy were we sorry.

September 29, 2011

 Puerto De Andratxa is a picturesque Mediterranean harbor on the west side of Mallorca framed by steep, rocky hillsides with monsterous villa overlooking the sea.   We left here  this morning after making one last stop at the German bakery in town.  Mmmmmm…... must stock my freezer.  Dark ryes of all shapes and sizes, with seeds and without; too many tough decisions so early in the morning, but I one decision was easy I had to have that chocolate croissant smiling my way in the display case.  Then  off to the corner Cafe for our morning cafe con leche while writing a few postcards.  The marina is crowded with some of the world’s finest motor yachts overflowing with “beautiful people” that come equipped with nannies, small yappy dogs and of course crew to help with the docking and polishing. Expensive  restarants lining the main drag are overflowing with European jet-setters and regular tourists (like us) taking in the yacht traffic in the harbour. 

 

  Every second boat coming into harbour is a Bavaria charter with a German flag and the local shops know how to cater the their clientel.   Each boat is docked “stern to” dock with only fenders separating one another to avoid damages….sardine-like, but the company is usually entertaining and enjoyable. 

  

   

SPRING FEVER

Can't believe today is already May 11/11.  Wauw!!!  It's already been roughly 3 weeks since my last blog.  With my memory not being what it used to be, I hope I don't leave out too many memorable experiences.



Easter long weekend in Benalmedena was a total washout in more ways than one.  It was cool and damp with all shops closed.  My one consolation was the neighbour's dog.

Moving on....the next port Velez, was a whole different experience.

Concealed behind the quiet enclaves of resort condos was a mini "Disney World"- like resort including an aquarium.  Included in the tourist tram route around the resort was a visit to the marina.  If you can enlarge the picture you see one of the people waving to us.  We were actually a tourist attraction.  Believe it or not?????  A 5 km path consisted mostly of restaurants and shops.  I bought a cap with our vessel name "Simple Abundance" stitched on the front.  Like I need another cap.  But it was totally fun.

Leaving Velez, we motored along the coast looking at the "white" fields???  Upon closer examination with binoculars we realized they were farm-like areas draped with "white" tarps for produce production.  This large-scale usage of "plasticulture" as its known here, originates from recoiled plastic.

Heading farther east we steered toward Almerimar.  Our mooring berth was directly towards the street, not very private , but very entertaining.  Mario's cafe off to the left not only had the most friendly service, but also the cheapest place for homemade tapas and  the only place close for internet service. We really lucked out here.  Once again we met several people from the UK and the chandlery here had a great inventory including a gangway for getting off the boat.  It's not as wobbly as it looks.



Everything in Almerimar was relatively inexpensive, incl the marina, so we decided this would be the right place to leave SA while we are in Canada.  However, once we were underway we realized that going back was too far.

Our flight back to Canada is booked for June 2, leaving from the airport near Cartagena.  It took Wolfgang one whole day to make the arrangements because there are several options and variables to consider.  We will stay 2 nights in Zurick and then on to Toronto.



I'm getting ahead of myself.  From Almerimar to Mazarron a small fishing community.  The Bay of Mazarron is quite sheltered by the foothills of the Sierra de la Almenara, a mining area.  With over 30 km of sandy beaches, coves and rocky sea beds makes this area ideal for scuba diving.



After the 9 hour trip to Cartagena we arrived in a new marina with a marinairo waving us along side the pontoon.  He was very swift and professional leaving a lasting impression.

Check- in was fast & easy....with showers and internet room 20m away.

Heading into town the next day for a little sightseeing we took in some of the many Roman ruins.  Among its numerous sites the recently restored Roman Theatre is on the city's most impressive landmarks.  My two personal favourites if the city hall and a hotel.

HOTEL

Cartagena is a large city with a population of approx. 250000 and is home to the Spanish Navy and a big naval shipyard.  It has been an important naval port as far back as the 16th century.

In the mean time, today is May 22; we spent the last 20 days in Guardamar de Segura, Marina de las Dunas. Nice beach, nice marina, the town is a 3km walk one way.  Luckily Vivamare has two collapsable bicycles on board which came in very handy for shopping.

Guardamar de Segura

After spending the last five months travelling together Vivamare did the jump across from  mainland Spain to Mallorca where they met up with friends coming from Germany.  So for the first time since Guernsey Wolfgang and I alone with only each other for company.
Yesterday we returned to Cartagena, best price in the Med.  June 1 is the beginning of the high season in the Med and a one night stay can easily start from $100 per night.  Therefore, prices are really important.

We will spend this next week preparing the boat.....sails down, clean and store.  Cleaning fridge and freezer etc.; the usual, I won't bore you.  Really looking forward to coming home; plan to stay til September.  We'll be in touch with everyone once back.  Too many details to mention in writing.  See you all very soon.

DON'T PUT ALL YOUR EGGS IN ONE BASKET

Happy Easter to everyone.     

Three days turned into three weeks and we were all very glad to see the back of that "Rock".  This cloud has been hanging over our marina for at least a week.  Hoping to escape it's intense ability to dampen our spirits, we set our sails and are now actually cruising in the "Med" along the Costa del Sol.  But wait what's all that grey stuff hanging over us; those can't be clouds, not along the sunshine coast.  Yes folks, the Gibraltar cloud has followed us; three days here in Marbella and the sky has been filled with black thunder clouds since our arrival and minutes after arriving back on board this afternoon the sky opened and we had a great downpour.
Marbella is one of many Spanish tourist towns along the Costa del Sol, especially popular with pensioners from the UK and Germany.  It is also very popular destination for luxury cruise ships and mega yachts from Saudi Arabia & USA.
Marbella is also known for its vast archaeological excavations in the La Concha mountains.

 We have learned to take it one day at a time here.  Now the weather looks promising for tomorrow, so it's anchors away further up the coast.  Benalmedena is our next port for those who are following our route.


 On those nasty wet days when we don't feel like venturing out we always find little jobs to keep us amused.  For instance, while I'm writing this blog Wolfgang is installing a new sensor gauge for the waste water tank.  Not as simple as it sounds because everything is hidden behind other things and very hard to reach.


Since Gibraltar is a duty free zone, alcohol and cigarets are relatively inexpensive.  We placed an order with a specialty shop who delivered the goods to our boat the very next day.  By law these items must remain sealed until 3 miles outside of Gibraltar jurisdiction. By now everything is safely stowed away under floorboards and behind seat cushions.


 We did a little restocking of pantry items today in Marbella after spending several pleasant, enjoyable hours meandering thru the streets of the old town with many unique shops offering their expensive wares.  The streets have a holiday atmosphere with many Spaniards dressed in their finest enjoying a meal at one of the many outdoor restaurants.

MONKEY BUSINESS

It's been almost two weeks since arriving on Gibraltar.  The original plan only called for a a few days here, but we looked into having a solar panel carrier  mounted to the rear of the boat; the price was right so the installation will be completed by the 15th and then it's on to the Costa del Sol and Ibiza.

Playing tourist, last week we hopped on the regular town bus and ventured to the other side of the island where the development is scarce and restricted to a few small holiday  townhouse units at the bottom of the impressive high cliffs.

Our next stop was “Europa Point” the most southerly point of the “Rock” with its famous Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim mosque reported to have been built at a cost of 5 million pounds is not only a place of worship, but also contains a school, library and lecture hall.

Looking south from the Trinity lighthouse across the strait we see Africa, the Rif Mountains of Morocco.   The weather was sunny, however a very blustery wind sweeps across this point most of the time, so lingering would have felt uncomfortable and the bus would have left without us.

This past Saturday we set out again; boarded the cable-car and headed up, up, up.  It’s a six minute ride to the top where the vistas are grand in all directions.  Looking east, the Mediterranean beckons with its tantalizing climate and cosy anchorages.  Across the Bay of Gibraltar we see the many tankers coming and going along side several warships carrying helicopters.  

Of course not to be forgotten the apes.  Gibraltar is home to the only wild monkeys in Europe.  The Barbary Apes are  a species of tailless monkeys that live in groups of families.  Walking freely among 
them is both awesome and surreal.  Although it's strictly forbidden to feed them even the smallest treat, tour guides seem to be exempt.  They feed them nuts so their paying customers can get the photo opportunity of a lifetime, an ape on their head or shoulder.  I saw a lot of scared faces.  Watching them was exciting, but if there's one thing I don't need, it's a monkey on my head.












After so much excitement it was time for some rest and relaxation.  We voted for going back to the marina for a little food and drink.  It seems a substantial  order of British fish and chips with mashed peas was the way to go.