Returning from Canada June 25th, the Capitano and I are on our own again in Gouvia, Corfu. We provision, stocking fridge and freezer because we know the grocery selection on the islands is minimal for meat and canned goods.
With our new anchor securely attached, fresh water tank full, diesel tank full, we set off July 2nd in a southerly direction eventually turning eastward through the Levkas Canal and eventually going through the Corinth Canal and into the Aegean Sea.
The Lefkas Canal has a floating swing bridge which opens every hour for navigational traffic in 2 directions between 6 am and 10 pm. It can also be opened on request after hours. The canal separtates the island from the mainland and serves as a shortcut to the nearby Ionian Islands. We anchored that evening in a large, tranquil bay where the only sounds we could hear were birds and distant bells from the goats wear around their necks.
Leaving Lefkas behind we decided to take in some culture and docked in the city of Vathy on the Island of Ithaca. Since the winds were not in our favour we thought this might be a good time and place to stay a few days. We rented a car and set out to discover the island. If you can recall any school mythology Ithaca is a small island in the Ionian Sea generally identified with Homer, poet and author most famous for the literary piece, Odyssey, where he describes the adventures of Odysseus, King of Ithaca. We arrived in Vathy on the southern side. Considering the historic importance of this island we rented a car and did some sightseeing. The all day trip took us to some small museums and archeological sites and several small seaside villages with lush greenery, pebble beaches and cyrstal clear water. The most impressive aspect of the island for me was its natural beauty. We also took in the 17th century Monastery of Katharon where I treated myself to some fresh bay leaves and dried oregano.
Driving us onward was our reunion with our friends on Vivamare, so early the next morning we untied our lines and set sail for the town of Messolonghi about 40 nm (nautical miles) eastward. The temperature had consistently increased all day and by the time we finally docked in the marina I had heat exhaustion. While I was trying to recoup, the skipper went to investigate a nearby bar/restaurant .....upon his return he mentioned something about A/C. The cocktail hour sounded promising, but in the end the A/C was off and all the doors open. To me the marina looked spooky and erie and the extreme heat was a major stress factor for me.
Our next port of call was the small island of Trizonia, recommened by the Shards. We were not disappointed although the marina was never completed; there is no water or electricity hook up for boats. Despite the minimal facilities there are good restaurants and a regular ferry to the mainland which is only half a mile away.
We spent 2 beautiful days in Trizonia just relaxing, catching up on some reading and the skipper doing some hiking to burn off some of those calories from the fried baby squid we had for lunch.
However, before we could finish with our delicious lunch we noticed VERY dark thunders clouds gathering and the winds picked up considerably. The skipper hurried back to the boat to close the hatches and was shocked to see SA (Simple Abundance) standing at an angle horizontal with the cement quay with other boaters pushing to keep our boat from being badly damaged. Our new anchor already a disappointment. We then managed to pull the anchor up by hand because the botom was soft and muddy. We did have some damage on our stern, port side.
One highlight we experienced between Messolonghi and Trizonia; we passed under the world's longest cable-stayed bridge, Rion Antirion which separates the Gulf of Patras from the Gulf of Corinth. It took 7 years to complete and really is a phenominal site to behold.
Leaving Galaxidi and feeling excited to experience the Corinth Canal.
We keep in touch with our friends Gaby and Gerald, but it did take us 4 weeks before meeting them on the Greek Island of Simi just before entering Turkish waters.
With our new anchor securely attached, fresh water tank full, diesel tank full, we set off July 2nd in a southerly direction eventually turning eastward through the Levkas Canal and eventually going through the Corinth Canal and into the Aegean Sea.
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| LEFKAS CANAL |
The Lefkas Canal has a floating swing bridge which opens every hour for navigational traffic in 2 directions between 6 am and 10 pm. It can also be opened on request after hours. The canal separtates the island from the mainland and serves as a shortcut to the nearby Ionian Islands. We anchored that evening in a large, tranquil bay where the only sounds we could hear were birds and distant bells from the goats wear around their necks.
Leaving Lefkas behind we decided to take in some culture and docked in the city of Vathy on the Island of Ithaca. Since the winds were not in our favour we thought this might be a good time and place to stay a few days. We rented a car and set out to discover the island. If you can recall any school mythology Ithaca is a small island in the Ionian Sea generally identified with Homer, poet and author most famous for the literary piece, Odyssey, where he describes the adventures of Odysseus, King of Ithaca. We arrived in Vathy on the southern side. Considering the historic importance of this island we rented a car and did some sightseeing. The all day trip took us to some small museums and archeological sites and several small seaside villages with lush greenery, pebble beaches and cyrstal clear water. The most impressive aspect of the island for me was its natural beauty. We also took in the 17th century Monastery of Katharon where I treated myself to some fresh bay leaves and dried oregano.
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| VATHY HARBOUR |
Driving us onward was our reunion with our friends on Vivamare, so early the next morning we untied our lines and set sail for the town of Messolonghi about 40 nm (nautical miles) eastward. The temperature had consistently increased all day and by the time we finally docked in the marina I had heat exhaustion. While I was trying to recoup, the skipper went to investigate a nearby bar/restaurant .....upon his return he mentioned something about A/C. The cocktail hour sounded promising, but in the end the A/C was off and all the doors open. To me the marina looked spooky and erie and the extreme heat was a major stress factor for me.
Our next port of call was the small island of Trizonia, recommened by the Shards. We were not disappointed although the marina was never completed; there is no water or electricity hook up for boats. Despite the minimal facilities there are good restaurants and a regular ferry to the mainland which is only half a mile away.
We spent 2 beautiful days in Trizonia just relaxing, catching up on some reading and the skipper doing some hiking to burn off some of those calories from the fried baby squid we had for lunch.
One highlight we experienced between Messolonghi and Trizonia; we passed under the world's longest cable-stayed bridge, Rion Antirion which separates the Gulf of Patras from the Gulf of Corinth. It took 7 years to complete and really is a phenominal site to behold.
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| RION ANTIRION BRIDGE |
Historic Galaxidi was the next harbour where we refuelled 130 liters of diesel for 180 euros. In the 18th and 19th century Galaxidi was renown as a major ship building center for commercial and naval ships. Unfortunately with the invention of steam driven ships their ship building industry collapsed and workers moved away. Today Galaxidi again is a traditional Greek town which enjoys playing host to the many tourists who come for the restaurants that use only the freshest local produce and homemade wines.
The local yogurt is sold in ceramic bowls without ingredient label or "best before" date. The small produce truck drives thur the streets selling fresh melons, grapes and peaches to anyone who stops him.
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| GALAXIDI |
The Corinth Canal separates the Peloponnesian peninsula from the Greek mainland and the Ionion Sea from the Aegean Sea. It is approx. 6 km long and only 20 m wide. Construction began in 1881 and was completed in 1893. The passage through the canal can save many days or even weeks of travel time, however, it does come at a price depending on the size of the vessel. Upon arrival
at the other end you must go to the official Canal office and make you payment. SA is 42 feet long and our price was 210 euros. It takes about an hour from one end to the other; here there is only one direction either going east or going west. Boats wait until a sufficient number has gathered to make the trip.
Now in the Aegean we head to Poros to anchor in the town bay opposite a naval acadamy. Postcard pretty!!!!
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| POROS |
With the weather forecast being very favourable we pulled our anchor and made our way thru a landscape of other boats still at anchor hoping to set our sails. And so it was; we had winds as high as 22 kn and boat speed as high as 8 kn. Eight hours later we arrived in our next anchorage tired, but happy and grateful for such a great sail.
Now in our third week heading east among the Cyclades, it still seems like we are only inching our way across the Aegean to meet up with Vivamare.
We spend the next 4 days on the Island Paros in the town of Naoussa on the north side of the island. It has developed from a small fishing village into a vibrant tourist resort of restaurants and bars clustered around the inner city. This is one of my favorite places; the food and the beach views are spectacular. The town has kept its authentic character with white painted houses along narrow alleys with small churches and chapels.
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| NAOUSSA, PAROS |
We bought a day-ticket for the local bus and explored several others towns, Parikia, Drios; all have beautiful, golden beaches with crystal clear water and happy people.
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| BEACHSIDE CAFE DRIOS |
