Sadly we must leave Kolona Beach. Our goal is to reach our winter mooring in Licata, Sicily without having to stay in any one place too long due to bad weather. We will revisit most of the same marinas and anchorages we enjoyed earlier in the season while heading eastward.
Being familiar with an anchorage is super nice. After 8 hours of travelling we tend to eat out and so we dined at Matina's Taverna a second time this summer. Just such lovely people and great food.
Planned to leave around 9am the next morning, but a torrential down pour delayed our departure by 2 hours, nevertheless, we arrived in Sofiku Bay, Stavedo Restaurant (recommended on Trip Advisor) in time for a late lunch with free WiFi and free mooring. How conveniently close, just one step off the boat.
The highlight on this short trip was seeing a small pod of dolphins. Dolphins are mammals and very social creatures and found mostly in shallower water.
Back thru the Corinth Canal to the pretty town of Galaxidi where we did a little shopping. Only small shops, no supermarkets....farm fresh eggs, local honey, natural yogurt in clay pot; we even found a small butcher tucked away in a small side street, nothing is prepackaged or artificial...amazing.
Due to very high winds we stayed 3 days in Galaxidi before making our way to Trizonia. We headed into the pounding waves struggling against the fierce wind. Vivamare stayed with us for about 2 hours but decided to head back to Galaxidi. It would be another 2 days before we would reunite in Trizonia.
Sept. 29th we make the trip from Trizonia to Mesolongi and dock at the town quay, not pretty, but safe. Mesolongi is to be our last Greek harbour. Running low on water the skipper runs a hose to the restaurant outdoor tap and bingo..our tanks have been replenished. Can finally shower and wash hair. The four of us walk into town to find a supermarket so we can prepare meals for our crossing from Greece to Italy about 200 nm. We are constantly checking the weather sites for a reasonably good weather window.
Finally Oct. 3 we all agree to go one port further and go to Vathi, Ithaca. The sky is overcast and now there's not enough wind to even raise any kind of sail. The temperature has dropped considerably and I wear socks for the first time in 6 months. By early evening the Vathi harbour was full (last Greek harbour). Several charter boats with all female crews arrived. Even as we watch them dock, dropping their anchor, the skipper already knows our anchors have crossed so the next morning as we prepare to leave it takes 20 minutes of patience and persistence from the skipper before our anchor is free.
We motor due to only 4 knots wind. We now have time to try and raise the para sailor or spinnaker which is stored below deck under the bow cabin bed. It is a special type of sail used in light winds. It fills with wind and balloons out in front of the boat.
Unfortunately we didn't have much luck keeping it up because lines were tangled, but we certainly gave it a good try and we continue to motor. This will be our last night- sail until we reach our destination, Licata. Finally around 6pm there is enough wind to turn the engine off and raise the main sail and the genoa. Just before it gets dark we exchange the genoa for the jib and put 1 reef in the main; that setup will take us thru the night safely at a speed of 8 kn. During a night-sail we attempt to take 2 hour shifts on watch in the cockpit. It was a quiet night and all was well so we arrived in Crotone early afternoon with a strong wind from behind about an hour before a downpour. Early to bed and late to rise, the rain and wind stayed with us for several days.
As we biked past the shipyard we spotted Richard on his catamaran, a friend we met earlier in the year; so we invited him back to Simple Abundance for a drink. What a treat to see him again.
Once the weather cleared we did one last shop at the "market" (love it), produce is so fresh, so cheap. Next morning we fuelled up with 242 euros worth of diesel before heading to Roccella. Roccella's claim to fame is their 1 meter long pizza.
Next morning we continue along the Sicilian coast to Marzamemi. Not a pretty harbour, but the best free wifi connection. The weather forecast was not favourable and we stayed 3 nights which left 2 days for exploring the countryside nearby.
A few km inland, the town of Pachino and its surroundings have been repeatedly chosen as the location of several movie sets. Since 2000, the main square in Marzamemi is host to the Festival of Cinema of the Frontier.
Marina di Ragusa is our last stop before Marina del Cala di Sole in Licata. The 2 marinas are similar in size and facilities. Several cruisers have moved from Ragusa to Licata in the past 2 years.
Licata is well protected by large, overlapping breakwaters. The marina has a chandlery, laundromat and a very nice caffe/bar. Immediately behind the marina is a modern mall with a full-size supermarket. The marina staff is very friendly and helpful. The town of Licata is a typical mid-size Sicilian town, not a tourist resort and not particularly attractive, but its vibrant and friendly (it grows on you). Within a short bike ride one can get to all the desired services required by live-aboards. This year (2014) there are about 60 live-aboard boats and a very lively social community.
 |
| POROS ANCHORAGE |
Planned to leave around 9am the next morning, but a torrential down pour delayed our departure by 2 hours, nevertheless, we arrived in Sofiku Bay, Stavedo Restaurant (recommended on Trip Advisor) in time for a late lunch with free WiFi and free mooring. How conveniently close, just one step off the boat.
 |
| STAVEDO RESTAURANT |
The highlight on this short trip was seeing a small pod of dolphins. Dolphins are mammals and very social creatures and found mostly in shallower water.
Back thru the Corinth Canal to the pretty town of Galaxidi where we did a little shopping. Only small shops, no supermarkets....farm fresh eggs, local honey, natural yogurt in clay pot; we even found a small butcher tucked away in a small side street, nothing is prepackaged or artificial...amazing.
 |
| Galaxidi Shopping |
Due to very high winds we stayed 3 days in Galaxidi before making our way to Trizonia. We headed into the pounding waves struggling against the fierce wind. Vivamare stayed with us for about 2 hours but decided to head back to Galaxidi. It would be another 2 days before we would reunite in Trizonia.
Sept. 29th we make the trip from Trizonia to Mesolongi and dock at the town quay, not pretty, but safe. Mesolongi is to be our last Greek harbour. Running low on water the skipper runs a hose to the restaurant outdoor tap and bingo..our tanks have been replenished. Can finally shower and wash hair. The four of us walk into town to find a supermarket so we can prepare meals for our crossing from Greece to Italy about 200 nm. We are constantly checking the weather sites for a reasonably good weather window.
Finally Oct. 3 we all agree to go one port further and go to Vathi, Ithaca. The sky is overcast and now there's not enough wind to even raise any kind of sail. The temperature has dropped considerably and I wear socks for the first time in 6 months. By early evening the Vathi harbour was full (last Greek harbour). Several charter boats with all female crews arrived. Even as we watch them dock, dropping their anchor, the skipper already knows our anchors have crossed so the next morning as we prepare to leave it takes 20 minutes of patience and persistence from the skipper before our anchor is free.
We motor due to only 4 knots wind. We now have time to try and raise the para sailor or spinnaker which is stored below deck under the bow cabin bed. It is a special type of sail used in light winds. It fills with wind and balloons out in front of the boat.
 |
| PARA SAILOR |
Unfortunately we didn't have much luck keeping it up because lines were tangled, but we certainly gave it a good try and we continue to motor. This will be our last night- sail until we reach our destination, Licata. Finally around 6pm there is enough wind to turn the engine off and raise the main sail and the genoa. Just before it gets dark we exchange the genoa for the jib and put 1 reef in the main; that setup will take us thru the night safely at a speed of 8 kn. During a night-sail we attempt to take 2 hour shifts on watch in the cockpit. It was a quiet night and all was well so we arrived in Crotone early afternoon with a strong wind from behind about an hour before a downpour. Early to bed and late to rise, the rain and wind stayed with us for several days.
As we biked past the shipyard we spotted Richard on his catamaran, a friend we met earlier in the year; so we invited him back to Simple Abundance for a drink. What a treat to see him again.
Once the weather cleared we did one last shop at the "market" (love it), produce is so fresh, so cheap. Next morning we fuelled up with 242 euros worth of diesel before heading to Roccella. Roccella's claim to fame is their 1 meter long pizza.
 |
| 1 METER PIZZA IN ROCCELLA We stayed 3 days in Roccella before crossing from the mainland to Siracusa, Sicily. 95 miles/15 hrs. later we anchored in Siracusa harbour, the only 2 cruising boats. |
Next morning we continue along the Sicilian coast to Marzamemi. Not a pretty harbour, but the best free wifi connection. The weather forecast was not favourable and we stayed 3 nights which left 2 days for exploring the countryside nearby.
 |
| Pachino |
Marina di Ragusa is our last stop before Marina del Cala di Sole in Licata. The 2 marinas are similar in size and facilities. Several cruisers have moved from Ragusa to Licata in the past 2 years.
Licata is well protected by large, overlapping breakwaters. The marina has a chandlery, laundromat and a very nice caffe/bar. Immediately behind the marina is a modern mall with a full-size supermarket. The marina staff is very friendly and helpful. The town of Licata is a typical mid-size Sicilian town, not a tourist resort and not particularly attractive, but its vibrant and friendly (it grows on you). Within a short bike ride one can get to all the desired services required by live-aboards. This year (2014) there are about 60 live-aboard boats and a very lively social community.
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